Shichahai 什刹海Shíchàhǎi

Why go to Shichahai

North-west of the Forbidden City, Shichahai is the collective name for three linked lakes, Qianhai ('Front Lake'), Houhai ('Rear Lake') and Xihai ('Western Lake'), surrounded by hutongs, the old lanes of courtyard houses. Start at Yinding Bridge between Qianhai and Houhai, walk the slanting lane of Yandai Xiejie ('Tobacco Pipe Slanting Street') towards the Drum Tower, then follow the shore of Houhai on foot, by bike or by pedicab as its lakeside bars and restaurants fill up in the evening.

The story

In the Yuan dynasty these lakes, then called Jishuitan, were the northern terminus of the Grand Canal, where grain boats arriving from the south moored, which is why Shichahai is now part of the Grand Canal World Heritage Site. Wanning Bridge at the lakes' eastern outlet, built in 1285, is where the canal meets the city's central axis.

What to see at Shichahai

• Wanning Bridge 万宁桥: One of the few old bridges still standing around the lakes, alongside Yinding and Desheng bridges, a short walk from the Drum Tower end of the lakes.
• Yandai Xiejie and Baimi Xiejie 烟袋斜街·白米斜街: Two of the slanting hutong lanes that run off the lakeshore, part of a street pattern that took shape in the Yuan dynasty and now lined with small shops and cafés.
• Yinding Bridge 银锭桥: The small stone 'Silver Ingot' bridge at the narrow neck between Qianhai and Houhai, a classic place to stop and look along the water.
• Guo Moruo Memorial Hall 郭沫若纪念馆: The former home of the writer and scholar Guo Moruo on Qianhai West Street, now a small museum beside the lake.
• Soong Ching-ling Former Residence 宋庆龄故居: The former home of Soong Ching-ling on Houhai's north shore, now open as a museum.

How to visit Shichahai

Shichahai is best done on foot: start at Yinding Bridge or Yandai Xiejie, follow Qianhai's shore, then walk the north bank of Houhai, where the lakeside bars cluster and fill up in the evening. The two museums on the lakes, Guo Moruo Memorial Hall and Soong Ching-ling Former Residence, are closed on Mondays. Half a day covers the lakes, lanes and one museum; a full day lets you add Prince Gong's Mansion and the Drum and Bell Towers.

How to get to Shichahai

Take Metro Line 8 to Shichahai, a few minutes' walk from Yandai Xiejie and Yinding Bridge, or Line 6 to Beihai North, about 500 metres west of Qianhai.

Where to stay

Stay in the hutongs around Houhai and the Drum Tower for lanes, lake walks and evening bars on the doorstep, with Metro Lines 6 and 8 close by. Lakeside bars can be noisy at night, so choose a room on a side lane.

What to eat

• Douzhi with jiaoquan 豆汁配焦圈: Douzhi is a sour, fermented mung-bean drink, one of Beijing's best-known acquired tastes, traditionally drunk with a crisp fried ring (jiaoquan) and shredded pickles.
• Baodu 爆肚: Quick-scalded tripe served with a dipping sauce, a classic old-Beijing snack.

Tips for visiting Shichahai

• Pedicab hutong tours here are run by licensed operators; agree the route, the length and whether the price is per person or per vehicle before you set off.
• In summer you can hire a boat on the lakes; in mid-winter, once the ice is thick enough, parts of Qianhai and Houhai open as an outdoor rink with skates, ice chairs and ice bikes.
• Prince Gong's Mansion, the Drum and Bell Towers and the shop-lined hutong of Nanluoguxiang are all within walking distance of the lakes.

Nearby

• Drum and Bell Towers 钟鼓楼 under 10 km
  Beijing's old timekeeping towers, with drum performances and views over the hutong roofs
• Prince Gong's Mansion 恭王府 under 10 km
  A Qing courtyard mansion and rock garden, home first to a corrupt minister, then a prince
• Beihai Park 北海公园 under 10 km
  A former imperial lake garden crowned by a white Tibetan-style stupa on its island
• Temple of Confucius and Imperial Academy 孔庙和国子监 under 10 km
  Courtyards of stone steles naming imperial exam graduates, beside the old Imperial Academy
• Lama Temple 雍和宫 under 10 km
  Incense-filled courtyards and an 18-metre sandalwood Buddha in a working monastery
• Forbidden City 故宫 under 10 km
  Six centuries of imperial power behind vermilion walls in the heart of Beijing

Also within 30 km: Guo Moruo Residence 郭沫若故居 (under 10 km), Former Residence of Soong Ching-ling 宋庆龄故居 (under 10 km), Mei Lanfang Memorial Museum 梅兰芳纪念馆 (under 10 km), Wen Tianxiang Temple 文天祥祠 (under 10 km), Zhizhu Temple 智珠寺 (under 10 km), Jingshan Park 景山公园 (under 10 km).

On the map

Open Shichahai on the illustrated map to see the terrain around it, what else is close, and to add it to a trip and plan the days.

Learn more

• Wikipedia
• Wikipedia (Chinese)