Atlas of China
Shanhai Pass 山海关Shānhǎiguān
Where the Ming Great Wall ends at the sea, at the 'First Pass Under Heaven'
- Best time
- May–Jun, Sep–Oct
- Time needed
- Half a day to 1 day
- Days to budget
- 1 day
- Stay in
- Qinhuangdao
- Region
- Hebei
- Type
- Heritage
- Listed as
- 5A scenic area, National heritage site, UNESCO World Heritage
Why go to Shanhai Pass
Shanhai Pass is the fortified gateway at the eastern end of the Ming Great Wall, squeezed into the narrow plain between the Yan Mountains and the Bohai Sea. The scenic area takes in the walled old town with its gate towers and Bell and Drum Tower, Mengjiangnü Temple, and, some kilometres south, Laolongtou ('Old Dragon's Head'), where the wall runs out into the water. Much of what you see has been rebuilt since the 1980s, so expect a mix of original and restored work.
The story
The present pass was built in 1381, early in the Ming dynasty, and its position on the only easy land route between north China and the north-east made it one of the empire's most important gateways. The name 'Shanhai' means 'mountain and sea', and the plaque calling it the 'First Pass Under Heaven' still hangs on the east gate tower. The Great Wall, including this pass, is a UNESCO World Heritage Site (1987).
What to see at Shanhai Pass
- East Gate Tower (Zhendong Tower) 镇东楼: The main gate tower of the walled town, with the large 'First Pass Under Heaven' plaque under the eaves of its upper storey.
- Bell and Drum Tower 钟鼓楼: A tower at the centre of the old town, rebuilt in the 2000s after the original was pulled down in the 1950s, which anchors the walled-city street grid.
- Mengjiangnü Temple 孟姜女庙: A temple on a hill outside the pass, in the village of Wangfushi, dedicated to the heroine of a well-known Great Wall legend.
- Laolongtou (Old Dragon's Head) 老龙头: A short stretch of wall, only about twenty metres long, that runs out onto rocks in the Bohai Sea, where the Ming wall ends.
- Chenghai Tower 澄海楼: A two-storey tower on the wall at Ninghai Castle beside the sea at Laolongtou, rebuilt in the 1970s, with sea views.
How to visit Shanhai Pass
Start in the walled old town: the East Gate Tower, the Bell and Drum Tower and the quiet streets around them take about two hours. Then go on to Laolongtou, where the sea-entering wall, Ninghai Castle and Chenghai Tower can fill another two to three hours. Mengjiangnü Temple is a separate stop several kilometres east of the pass, by taxi. With half a day, do the gate and Laolongtou and skip the temple.
How to get to Shanhai Pass
Shanhaiguan railway station, on the Beijing–Harbin line, is about 1.4 km from the old town; Qinhuangdao station is about 17 km south-west (around 23 km by road), so check 12306 for the train that suits you. Laolongtou is about 6 km south-east of the old town, reached by city bus or taxi; check the current bus number locally.
Where to stay
Stay in the old town of Shanhaiguan to be inside the walls at dawn and dusk; Qinhuangdao city has more choice and links by rail, and the beach resort of Beidaihe is further down the coast.
What to eat
- Hun guo hotpot 浑锅: A copper-pot hotpot of pickled cabbage, pork belly and seafood, often with kelp and meatballs, listed locally as intangible heritage and served in the old town.
- Hui-style mung bean cake 绿豆糕: A soft, fine-textured cake from a long-established Hui-run bakery in the old town, a local speciality to take away.
- Menzi 焖子: Set starch jelly fried in cubes and served with a garlic and sesame sauce, a common street snack along this coast of Hebei.
Tips for visiting Shanhai Pass
- Ticketing for the old town, Laolongtou and the temple has varied between separate and combined tickets, so check which sights your ticket covers; bring your passport for ticket windows and real-name booking.
- The old town and the walls are exposed, with little shade, and the sea wind is cold outside summer; allow the better light of morning or late afternoon for photographs at Laolongtou.
- Many walls and towers are modern reconstructions on old foundations, which is why the town looks so tidy.
Nearby
Also within 30 km: Jiaoshan Great Wall 角山长城 (under 10 km), Ledao Ocean Kingdom 乐岛海洋王国 (under 10 km), Changshou Mountain 长寿山 (under 10 km), Jiumenkou Great Wall 九门口长城 (10 km), Jiangnüshi Site 姜女石遗址 (10 km), Qin Emperor's Immortality Quest Park 秦皇求仙入海处 (20 km).
On the map
Open Shanhai Pass on the illustrated map to see the terrain around it, what else is close, and to add it to a trip and plan the days.
Open Shanhai Pass on the map