Xiezhou Guandi Temple 解州关帝庙Xièzhōu Guāndìmiào

Why go to Xiezhou Guandi Temple

In Xiezhou town, about 20 km south-west of central Yuncheng, this is one of the largest temples to Guan Yu, a general of the Three Kingdoms era (220–280) later worshipped as a god of loyalty and war. Begin in the Jieyi Garden, named after the oath of brotherhood Guan Yu swore with Liu Bei and Zhang Fei, then follow the main axis north through a series of gateways and the main Chongning Hall to the Chunqiu Tower, where an upstairs statue shows Guan Yu reading the Spring and Autumn Annals.

The story

Founded in 589 under the Sui dynasty, the temple burned down in 1702 and took more than a decade to rebuild, so most of what stands today is Qing. Chinese sources call it the 'ancestor of Guan temples', first among the thousands of shrines to Guan Yu in China and in Chinese communities abroad.

What to see at Xiezhou Guandi Temple

• Jieyi Garden 结义园: South of the main temple, a garden of pavilions and a lotus pond built in 1620. It is entered through the Jieyi Archway, and the Junzi Pavilion and Sanyi Pavilion recall the oath of brotherhood.
• Four-dragon screen wall 四龙壁: A glazed screen wall in front of the main gate dating from the Xuande reign of the Ming, picturing four coiled dragons across heaven, earth and sea.
• Chongning Hall 崇宁殿: The main hall, named after a title given to Guan Yu in 1104. Plaques from Qing emperors and the Empress Dowager hang inside, and the double-eaved hall is the centre of the temple.
• Chunqiu Tower 春秋楼: The rear palace's tower, rebuilt in the Ming, is known for its hanging beams and columns, its chrysanthemum caisson ceiling and a Guan Yu statue reading by night. The Blade Tower and Seal Tower, holding a replica of his blade and seal, flank the courtyard in front.

How to visit Xiezhou Guandi Temple

Begin in the Jieyi Garden to the south, then go past the screen wall and through the successive gates along the main axis to Chongning Hall and the rear palace with Chunqiu Tower. The east and west courtyards, with Taoist halls, can be done in the second half of a visit. Two to three hours covers the axis, while the full complex takes longer.

How to get to Xiezhou Guandi Temple

Take high-speed rail to Yuncheng North (about 1 hour from Xi'an North or 2–2.5 hours from Taiyuan South), then take a taxi for the 30–40 minute drive to Xiezhou; city buses also run from central Yuncheng to Xiezhou town.

Where to stay

Stay in Yuncheng city, about 20 km away, which has the station and the widest choice; Xiezhou town itself is small.

What to eat

• Xiezhou lamb soup with bread 解州羊肉泡馍: Torn flatbread in a lamb soup simmered with meat and bones in an iron pot, tied to Xiezhou by local legend about Guan Yu.
• Wenxi boiled cakes 闻喜煮饼: A sesame-coated pastry fried and dipped in syrup, from nearby Wenxi county and sold across the Yuncheng area.

Tips for visiting Xiezhou Guandi Temple

• The Changping Guandi Temple, the Guan family temple in the village held to be Guan Yu's birthplace, is about 10 km to the east and an easy add-on by taxi.
• Xiezhou is only a few kilometres from the western end of the Yuncheng Salt Lake, so the temple and the lake pair well in a day.

Nearby

• Yuncheng Salt Lake 运城盐湖 20 km
  Brine ponds that turn red, pink and green in summer, below the Zhongtiao Mountains
• Yongle Palace 永乐宫 30 km
  Yuan-dynasty Taoist murals in a temple moved piece by piece to make way for a reservoir
• Hancheng Old Town and Dangjia Village 韩城古城·党家村 70 km
  Ming temples in an old county town and a village of grey-brick Ming–Qing courtyard houses
• Mount Hua 华山 80 km
  Sheer granite peaks, stairways cut into cliffs and a notorious plank walk

Also within 30 km: Tongshan Charitable Granary, Xiezhou 解州同善义仓 (under 10 km), Changping Guandi Temple 常平关帝庙 (10 km), Dongcun Opera Stage 董村戏台 (10 km), Bian Que Temple, Yongji 扁鹊庙 (10 km), Qingliang Temple, Ruicheng 清凉寺 (10 km), Pagoda of Master Fanzhou 泛舟禅师塔 (10 km).

On the map

Open Xiezhou Guandi Temple on the illustrated map to see the terrain around it, what else is close, and to add it to a trip and plan the days.

Learn more

• Wikipedia
• Wikipedia (Chinese)