Langzhong Ancient City 阆中古城Làngzhōng Gǔchéng

Why go to Langzhong Ancient City

Langzhong's old town is a chessboard of grey-tiled courtyard houses, lantern-hung lanes and temples, wrapped on three sides by the Jialing River and ringed by hills, a site long held up as a model of feng shui planning. Highlights include the shrine and tomb of the Three Kingdoms general Zhang Fei, the tiered Huaguang Tower and a Qing-dynasty imperial examination hall, now a museum of the old civil-service exams. Stay overnight to see the lanes lit up after the day-trippers leave.

The story

Zhang Fei, the fiery general of the Three Kingdoms, governed Langzhong for seven years and was killed here by two of his own officers in 221; the town has honoured him at his tomb ever since. Langzhong was also home to Luo Xiahong, a Han-dynasty astronomer whose Taichu calendar fixed New Year at the start of the first lunar month, which is why the town calls itself the home of the Spring Festival.

What to see at Langzhong Ancient City

• Zhang Fei Temple 张桓侯祠: The shrine and tomb of Zhang Fei, the Three Kingdoms general who governed here. A national heritage site, it is the focus of the town's Spring Festival temple fairs.
• Zhongtian Tower 中天楼: The old town is laid out around this tall wooden tower, which gives one of the best views of the roofs, lanes and river.
• Sichuan North Examination Hall 川北道贡院: A well-preserved imperial examination hall where candidates sat the Qing-era civil-service exams, and a national protected site.
• Feng Shui Museum 风水博物馆: An exhibition on the geomancy that shaped Langzhong's layout, with a scale model of the old town.
• Daxiangshan Grand Buddha 大像山: Across the river, a hillside temple with a large seated Buddha carved into the cliff, and a national heritage site.

How to visit Langzhong Ancient City

Start at Zhongtian Tower in the middle of the old town and walk out along the lanes to the Zhang Fei Temple and the examination hall; a combined ticket covers the main sights over two days. Cross the river to Daxiangshan on a half-day. The Langzhong Museum is closed on Mondays; the old lanes are best in the evening, when day-trippers leave and the lanterns come on.

How to get to Langzhong Ancient City

Langzhong station, on the Lanzhou–Chongqing line about 4 km south-west of the old town, is 1.5–2 hours by train from Chongqing North and about 2.5 hours from Chengdu East, though direct Chengdu trains are few. A taxi from the station to the old town takes around 10 minutes.

Where to stay

Stay in a courtyard inn inside the old town, where the lanes are car-free and the evening lanterns are on your doorstep. Book early at Spring Festival.

What to eat

• Baoning vinegar 保宁醋: A mellow, herb-brewed vinegar from Langzhong's old name Baoning, used in the town's cold noodles and sold in shops.
• Zhangfei beef 张飞牛肉: Beef braised, air-dried and finished in a spicy-numbing red glaze, named after the general in local legend.
• Steamed sugar buns 白糖蒸馍: Soft wheat buns fermented with yeast, steamed in different shapes, with white sugar baked in.

Tips for visiting Langzhong Ancient City

• You can wander the old town streets as you like, but the main sights are ticketed; a combined ticket covering several of them stays valid for more than one day.
• Try Baoning vinegar, brewed from grain with medicinal herbs, and dark-crusted Zhangfei beef; vinegar shops in the old town offer tastings.
• Spring Festival brings lanterns, dragon dances and old New Year customs, but also crowds, so book a courtyard inn early. For the classic view over the rooftops, cross the river to Jinping Mountain.

Nearby

• Jianmen Pass 剑门关 80 km
  The cliff-walled gate on the old road to Shu that Li Bai said one man could hold

Also within 30 km: Baba Mosque 巴巴寺 (under 10 km), Daxiangshan Giant Buddha, Langzhong 大像山摩崖造像 (under 10 km), Yutai Mountain Stone Pagoda 玉台山石塔 (under 10 km), Tiangong Yuan 天宫院 (20 km), Wenchang Pavilion of Wulong Temple 五龙庙文昌阁 (20 km), Yong'an Temple, Langzhong 永安寺 (30 km).

On the map

Open Langzhong Ancient City on the illustrated map to see the terrain around it, what else is close, and to add it to a trip and plan the days.

Learn more

• Wikipedia: Langzhong