Ejin Poplar Forest 额济纳胡杨林Éjìnà Húyánglín

Why go to Ejin Poplar Forest

Ejin Poplar Forest is a belt of desert poplars (Populus euphratica) along the Ejin River beside Dalaihub, in the Gobi of western Inner Mongolia. The scenic area covers about 56 square kilometres of riverside forest, Gobi, grassland and lakes, arranged as a string of numbered 'bridges' along the river. The leaves turn gold in autumn, usually from late September into October, and the region fills with photographers for those weeks.

The story

The Euphrates poplar is called the hero tree of the desert because it survives drought, salt and drifting sand. These groves line the Ejin River, which flows north from the Qilian Mountains, and the area lies close to the ruins of Khara-Khoto, a Western Xia city.

What to see at Ejin Poplar Forest

• Second Bridge 二道桥: The classic sunrise and sunset spot: golden trees mirrored in the river, within walking distance of the visitor centre.
• Third Bridge 三道桥: Known for its red tamarisk (red willow) scrub, which glows beside the gold of the poplars; it is not itself a poplar grove.
• Fourth Bridge 四道桥: The 'Hero Woods', named after Zhang Yimou's film Hero, which was shot here; the densest stand of old poplars.
• Seventh Bridge 七道桥: Close to the sand, its trees turn yellow earliest, so it can be the best choice at the start of the season.
• Eighth Bridge 八道桥: The desert end of the forest at the northern edge of the Badain Jaran, with dunes, camel rides and 4x4 rides.

How to visit Ejin Poplar Forest

The entrance and visitor centre are at the First Bridge, which is joined to the Second on foot, and the Third is also reached on foot from the Second. Shuttle buses then stop at the Second, Fourth, Seventh and Eighth bridges; the Fifth has yurts and stalls and the Sixth is not open. A common plan is to ride out to the Eighth for sunrise or early light and work back; the Fourth and the Eighth can both return to the First without a change. Half a day covers the Second, Third and Fourth; a full day adds the Seventh and Eighth. For sunset, drive on to Guaishulin, the 'ghost forest' of dead poplars, a separate site southwest of Dalaihub near the Khara-Khoto ruins.

How to get to Ejin Poplar Forest

The forest is about 2.5 km from the centre of Dalaihub, the Ejin Banner seat, with no public transport, so take a taxi or hired car. Ejin Banner airport has a few flights, for example from Xi'an and Hohhot; the train from Hohhot is slow (about 15 hours), and many visitors drive in from Jiayuguan (about 5–6 hours).

Where to stay

Stay in Dalaihub, the Ejin Banner seat 2.5 km from the forest; hotels fill up through the leaf season.

What to eat

• Sand onion 沙葱: A wild desert chive of the Alxa region, served dressed as a cold dish, scrambled with egg or mixed with yoghurt in Dalaihub restaurants.
• Camel meat 驼肉: Braised or spiced camel, an Alxa speciality on the menus of Mongolian and north-western restaurants in town.

Tips for visiting Ejin Poplar Forest

• Avoid the October Golden Week holiday if you can: crowds are heavy, and rooms in Dalaihub are scarce through the whole leaf season, so book well ahead.
• The leaves turn in late September and can fall quickly in a cold snap, so check local reports; days are warm and mornings cold, so layer up.
• Light is softest in the morning and late afternoon. Ejin is a border banner, so carry your passport for ID checks; the shuttle runs only in daylight and evening hours, so check the last bus.

Nearby

Also within 30 km: Khara-Khoto (Heicheng) 黑城遗址 (20 km).

On the map

Open Ejin Poplar Forest on the illustrated map to see the terrain around it, what else is close, and to add it to a trip and plan the days.